Wanderings in Burma

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Extracts from
Wanderings in Burma
by
George W. Bird,
published 1897
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Rangoon & Suburbs

Shwedagon Pagoda
In the north east corner of the pagoda platform is a small enclosure containing the graves of several officers and men who lost their lives at the taking of the pagoda in 1852.

In a separate building on the eastern side is an enormous bell called in the vernacular “Maha Ganda.” With the exception of the immense bell at Mingun near Mandalay... it is the largest
bell in the province. It was presented to the Pagoda in 1840 by King Tharrawaddi..... An inscription of 12 lines in Burmese is engraved on the side has been translated by the late Mr G. Hough...

The common report that this bell was dropped into the Rangoon river while in transit as a prize trophy to Calcutta at the close of the First Burmese war is not founded on fact. From the correspondence in the subject which appeared in the Rangoon Gazette in the early part of the present year (1896), the following extract, which describes fully the way in which the bell was raised was quoted. The bell here referred to was not the Maha Ganda but a smaller one which hung on the north-west corner of the platform. The book from which the extract is taken is the “Travels” of Lt. J.E. Alexander, late H.M.’s 13th Light Dragoons, which was published in 1827. Lt. Alexander returned from Prome when the Treaty of 3rd January 1826 (afterwards broken) was signed. He says “Upon my arrival at Rangoon I had the satisfaction of being the first to convey the intelligence of the conclusion of peace to Brigadier Smelt, the Commandant. The news quickly spread in consequence. The Burmese were in ecstasy on another account, namely the raising of the bell of the Great Pagoda out of the river into which it had fallen several months previous, whilst the Prize-agents were endeavouring to ship it to Bengal as a trophy. It was raised in a very simple manner by attaching two cables to it, which at low water were made fast to a brig moored over it, when the tide rose, so did the bell and it was hauled on shore by thousands of enraptured natives, who testified their delight by many acts of extravagance, they crowned it with flowers, they performed sacrifices to it, they danced around it and placed bands of music constantly near it. At the time I left Rangoon they were busily employed in removing it to its former position at the Shoe Dagon.

Lt. Alexander left Rangoon on the 9th January 1926 in H.M.S. Champion, “reckoned the fastest sailing vessel in the British Navy,” and reached Calcutta on the 23rd January.

... After the Second-Anglo-Burmese war the platform was converted into a fortification and at the present time is held by a guard of European troops. The powder magazines and ordnance stores lie on the north-west face.

Dalla
This is a suburb of Rangoon, situated on the opposite bank of the river and is
within municipal limits. It has a Government dockyard, which for a number of years has been leased to the Irrawaddy Flotilla Co.... Further down are the steam sawmills of the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation, where the teak logs from
the forests of Upper Burma are squared and prepared for export.

Ko-Kaing
A suburb of Rangoon, situated to the north of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Up to within a few years ago it was little better than a village of market-gardeners and cattle-owners. Of late years, however, owing to the scarcity of land in Rangoon, land has been taken by the wealthy speculators for house sites and the principal members of the mercantile community have their suburban residences there. Owing to the undulating nature of the surface and the presence of large foliage trees, better sites could not be procured. In this neighbourhood is the Victoria Lake, formed some years ago by bunding up a deep valley, for supplying Rangoon with water. From this lake the water is taken in iron mains to the Royal Lake, which acts as a distributing reservoir.

Bo-Ta-Taung Pagoda
This small but ancient Pagoda is built on the bank of the river about a mile above Monkey Point, It is said to have been built in A.D. 947 by Ok-ka-la-ba, King of Tun-te to mark the spot where the body of his son Chin-han-da, who have been drowned in the Pegu river, was cremated. The name signifies Bo – Officer Ta-taung – 1,000 and as given because it was erected by 1,000 of the King’s officers.

The Agri-Horticultural Society’s Gardens
These gardens are situated in Pagoda Road, immediately opposite to the General Hospital and the Rangoon College. The gardens are merely a depot for experimental horticulture and to the general public are uninteresting. Within these gardens, however, the Phayre Museum and the Zoological Gardens are situated. In front of the Museum stands the first bronze statue the city can boast of, that of Sir Arthur Phayre, who was appointed first Chief Commissioner in 1862....

Rangoon To Prome By Rail
This line, which is 161 miles in length, was the first constructed in the province and was opened for general traffic on 1st May 1877. The general direction throughout is north-west. The mail train leaves the Phayre Street station ...... For the first ten miles the line runs through the suburbs of Rangoon, the most important being Kemmendine and Insein. The former is the north-west quarter of Rangoon and is inhabited principally by Burmese who are slowly but surely being ousted from the business quarter of the city by the natives of India and the ubiquitous “John Chinaman.”

A few of the rice mills are situated on the banks of the river in this neighbourhood. Both in the first and second Anglo-Burmese wars considerable opposition was offered by the Burmese at this place, where numerous and strongly constructed stockades were held for some months by the enemy, who were with difficulty expelled from the neighbourhood of Rangoon.

Nine miles from Rangoon we arrive at Insein. This is now an important suburb and owing to a suitable train service, is fast becoming popular as a place of residence.... The construction and re-fitting shops of the Burma State Railway are situated here and in consequence for its size the place has a large European population.

In close proximity to the railway station are the Volunteer Rifle Butts, which are much frequented by the Rangoon Volunteer Rifles in the cold weather.

Prome and Neighbourhood
Prome was again occupied during the second Anglo-Burmese War in 1852. More combined opposition on the part of the Burmese was encountered but the heights were stormed and the defenders driven out. After the annexation, the garrison was removed to Thayetmyo, a few miles nearer the frontier, arbitrarily fixed by the British.

Rangoon To Bassein
This gives the steamer.... After leaving Waikema we pass Thayagon on our right had where a Mission Station of the American Baptists is maintained and then Kanazogon, where a Roman Catholic Mission is stationed, under the supervision of Fr. Bertrand who had laboured uninterruptedly in this field for the last thirty-eight years.

Bassein And Neighbourhood
... It contains the Courts of the Commissioner of the Irrawaddy Division and the Deputy Commissioner and those subordinate to them, a Customs House, a large jail, an Anglican Church, a Roman Catholic church, a High School and several handsome Mission stations and school of the American Baptist Mission Society.

... It is first mentioned by European travellers in 1586-87, when Ralph Fitch, an English merchant visited it, it is called Kosmin by him. In 1687 Capt. Weldon landed at Haingyi Island at the mouth of the Bassein river and took possession of it in the name of the East India Company. In 1753 the Governor of Madras founded a settlement on Haingyi or Negrais Island.

On the accession of Alaungpaya, the English had a factory at Bassein under Capt. Baker, who sought and obtained the protection of the conqueror. In return they were supplied the invading army with guns and other munitions of war. A treaty of friendship between the Company and Alaungpaya was agreed to and signed by which Negrais was ceded in perpetuity to the English and a piece of land 2,000 square yards in area at Bassein was given for the erection there of a factory....

During the first Anglo-Burmese war, Bassein was attacked and taken by Major Sale and held by the British till Pegu was evacuated in accordance with the terms of the treaty of Yandabo. During the second Anglo-Burmese war the town was again occupied by Commodore Lambert and has since remained in the possession of the British.

.. In the north east quarter of the town (Bassein) are situated the mission schools of the American Baptist Mission Society. Two of these are for the Karens and one (lately re-established) for the Burmese....

The station possesses a very nice Club where visitors are sure of a warm welcome. A very good hotel “The Shamrock” is maintained and accommodation also.....

Haingyi or Negrais, is an island situated at the mouth of the Bassein river, 83 miles from Rangoon and is important as being the first settlement of the English in the country. It was first occupied in 1686 by troops from Madras on their return from an expedition to Mergui. The first settlement was made in 1753. By the treaty made between the Company and Alaungpaya in 1757 the island was ceded in perpetuity to the English. In 1759 Negrais was partially abandoned by the Company and towards the close of the year those remaining were cruelly massacred by the Burmans, headed by one Antony. From this time no further settlement was made in the island...

Diamond Island
Situated about ten miles to the south of Haingyi... There are only three or four houses on this island – two pilot houses, the telegraph office and a native house in which the turtle egg collectors live. The whole surface is covered with an almost impenetrable jungle and cobras and other venomous snakes are commonly met with.

Rangoon To Prome By River
... After leaving Yandoon the next place of importance reached is Dabubyu, on the right bank... It is now the head-quarters if a town-ship, ... In the first Anglo-Burmese war, the Great Burmese General Maha Bandula, after being driven from the neighbourhood of Rangoon, entrenched himself here with 15,000 men. His main stockade was a parallelogram in shape, 1,000 yards by 700 yards, situated along the face of the river and considerably above it. The river face was defended by fifty cannon of various calibres and on the land side two earthworks were erected. The force originally sent against this fort was far too weak and it was not till Sir Archibald Campbell, the Commander- in- Chief joined his forces with the river columns under General Cotton that the stockade was captured. Heavy batteries of artillery were set up and plied shot and shell night and day and on the morning of the tenth day, silence being observed in the fort, it was discovered that the Burmese had evacuated it during the night. It was subsequently ascertained that the Great Bandula had been killed the previous day by the bursting of a shell, The fort was found to contain 140 cannon of all sizes and calibres, 269 jingals, besides large quantities of gunpowder and rice. Forty large war boats were also captured.

Henzada
... is the head-quarters of the large and important district of the same name. It is situated... The town contains court-houses, police stations, telegraph and post offices, a jail and a large market. This latter building has some excellent carving about it and was built in the “good old days” when timber and labour were cheap....

Two mission schools are maintained here by the American Baptist Mission, one for the Karens and the other for the Burmese. Henzada is ......

... till we arrive at Padaung, the head-quarters of a township in the Prome district.... It was here that the Burma army of Bo-daw-pya assembled in 1784 when on the march via the Taungup Pass to Arakan. After the war of 1852-53 a Public Works Department road over this pass was constructed and alongside of it runs the telegraph line which connects Burma with India. The road is now but little used and has fallen into disrepair. A little higher up the river....

Rangoon to Moulmein
... About eight miles below Moulmein, on the point at Natmu, are seen the saw mills of the Bombay Burma Trading Copr. These mills have been, or are about to be, removed to a more convenient site at Mopun. On the river close to the saw mills are the forts built for the protection of Moulmein. They contain two 69 lb. M.L.R. guns, which are worked by the Moulmein Volunteer Artillery.

After a run of five miles, passing several islands en route, Mopun bight is entered. On the banks are to be seen the numerous steam saw and rice mills of the European merchants and it is here that the chief trade of the port is carried on. After a run of three miles the main wharf is reached....

Moulmein is situated on the left bank of the Salween.... and is the head-quarters of the Amherst District and the Tenasserim Division. Its classic name is Ramapoora.

Moulmein Timber Mills – A visit to Moulmein would not be complete without a peep into one of the many steam saw mills seen on the banks, extending from Mopun right up to the neighbourhood of the Main or Iron Wharf. The annual export of teak...

Rangoon or Moulmein to Tavoy and Mergui
... The town of Tavoy is situated... It was one the capital of an independent Kingdom... It was taken without any opposition by the British in 1824 and was for a number of years garrisoned by a detachment from Moulmein.

... Mergui is situated on the .... The principal buildings are the Court Houses, Treasury, Police Office, Hospital, the Government School and the Circuit House... Mergui was at one time the Capital of a Siamese province and in the 17th century was an emporium of trade and had many European residents. In consequence of an attack on the European Settlement and the massacre of seventy-six of its residents in 1695 the East India Company declared war against Siam and Capt. Weldon, with a force from Madras was despatched to Mergui. Caesar Frederick, the Venetian explorer, who visited the town in 1509 says of it....

In 1824 it was occupied by a British force detached from Tavoy and after a slight resistance was captured. A small detachment of Sepoys garrisoned the town for some years but have long since been replaced by civil police....

Rangoon to Akyab by Coasting Steamer
... After leaving the mouth of the Rangoon river and passing Elephant Point... towards evening the Alguada Lighthouse is rounded and the course is then due north... Towards the afternoon of the second day the buoy off the mouth of the Sandoway river is reached... Sandoway is situated on the left bank ... about seventeen miles from the mouth. Surrounded by hills on all sides it is one of the most picturesque places to be met with in Lower Burma... Kyauk-pyu harbour is entered. In the fair weather the course taken is between the islands of Cheduba and Ramri... Mr F.R. Mallet, F.G.S., who visited Cheduba and Ramri some years ago thus explains the presence of these salses (or mud volcanoes.)...

After the occupation of the Arakan province in 1825, Kyauk-pyu was for some years the chief military station. In 1850 the garrison was withdrawn since which time the place has reduced in size and importance. At present it is the head-quarters of the district and contains the usual Government Offices.

The climate is said to be exceedingly unhealthy for Europeans and the abnormally large European cemetery somewhat corroborates the report...

Leaving Kyauk-pyu at daylight, Akyab is reached by about noon.... It was made the chief station of the province sine after the close of the first Anglo-Burmese war, the old capital (Myo-haung) having been found to be most unhealthy for European troops and civilians. The principal buildings are the Court House, Jail, Customs House, Hospital, Bazaar, High School and Club. There are in addition two R.C. Churches, one Anglican Church, besides several Mahomedan mosques and Hindu temples... About three miles above the town is the Chirregea Creek on the banks of which the rice-mills of the European merchants are built...

... The Borongo Islands further to the south contain a considerable number of petroleum wells, which for a number of years have been worked by the European method...

On the declaration of war with Burma in 1824, two expeditions were decided on. One via Chittagong to Arakan and the other via Rangoon..... Not a single life was lost in action but of the average strength of the two regiments, the 54th and the 44th amounting to 1,004 men, 595 died in the country in the course of eight months and of those who quitted it, not more than half were alive at the end of twelve months. (Report by Major Tullock, presented to Parliament in Aug. 1841.)

Mandalay to Prome by Steamer
... Leaving the shore at Mandalay..... passing on the left bank the dockyard and repairing sheds of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Co., abreast of which are moored a number of disused steamers... On board one of them the huge cannon in front of the palace, bearing on them the mark of ownership, “Georgius Rex” were doubtless surreptitiously carried up from Rangoon....

Three miles below, (Kyauktalon) on the right bank, is a large village of Myinmu. ... It is a growing place and of the head-quarters of the southern sub-division of the Sagaing district...

Sameik-gon, on the left bank... About a mile below and on the opposite bank is Nagabauk.... a large mission station of the Roman Catholic, peopled originally by Portuguese and French prisoners of war...

Immediately opposite Nagabauk on the left bank and close to the water’s edge is an old Banyan tree, the base of which is surrounded by a masonry platform. Here, on 24th February 1826, the Treaty of Yandabo was signed by Sir Archibald Campbell and the Burmese delegates appointed by the King. In consequence of this the tree is sometimes referred to as the “Treaty Tree.” Although nominally at Yandabo, the village of that name is some two of three miles further downstream....

For some years succeeding the annexation, Myingyan was an important military station as the large cantonments and extensive range of barrack accommodation still testify. Owing to the present police of strengthening the garrisons on the eastern frontier, its strategic importance has decreased so that at the present time the garrison consists of the head-quarters of one Sepoy regiment only, with a few details of other services....

From Myingyan the course is south-west till Pakokku is reached on the right bank, thirty-five miles from Myingyan... A timber revenue station is maintained here by the Forest Department, at which all the timber extracted from the Chindwin Forests by the Bombay Burmah Trading Corp. is checked and passed. This Company, it will be remembered, leased these and other forests from the Burmese Government and the failure or disinclination of the King to submit the points in dispute with the Company, to arbitration, was one of the primary causes of the war. On the British assuming the Government of the country, the leases held by the Company were allowed to hold good and have still some time to run. During the working season of 1893-94 the Company alone extracted from the Chindwin and Yaw forests....

... After passing the Pin river, the channel becomes much blocked by islands and sand-banks which are especially numerous in the neighbourhood of Yenangyaung. The town, as the names implies (Ye-nan, crude petroleum and Gyaung, a ravine or chasm,) is the chief centre of oil bearing tracts in the Magwe district. There are twenty-six demarcated square mile blocks of such land altogether. This area consists of wells which are the privilege of Government, leased to the Burma Oil Co., the native reserve assigned to native workers or twin-zas who have inter se, of digging wells in it, four square miles of the remaining area has been leased to the Burma Oil Co. and a similar area to the Lepel Griffin Syndicate. Several other capitalists have applied for other blocks.

The wells are situated in an irregular plateau surrounded by ravines about 3 ½ miles from the village. The working of the Burma Oil Co. are under the superintendence of experts from the United States and the oil is conveyed in iron pipes to the oil flats moored to the bank and there loaded in bulk and carried down the river to the Company’s reining works at Rangoon.

Minbu
A run of twenty-five miles beings is to Minbu, the head-quarters of the district of the same name and the residence of the Commissioner of the Southern Province. The station has the usual Government Offices and is the nearest point on the Irrawaddy river to the Aing Pass, leading over the Yomas to Arakan.

Magwe
About a mile below Minbu and on the left bank of the river is Magwe the head-quarters of the district of the same name. Owing to the silting-up of the channel, steamers are unable to moor off the station, so that goods and passengers for Magwe are landed generally at Minbu and passengers have to make their own arrangements for reaching their destinations.

Minhla
... and Minhla is reached, eighty miles below Minbu. This town was prior to the annexation of Upper Burma, the head-quarters of the Governor of the frontier districts and was defended by a fort of European construction, built of masonry and strengthened by earthworks of considerable thickness. This fort – called Kamyo fort – is situated on the top of the cliffs immediately facing Minhla. It was captured on the 17th November 1885 by the Liverpool Regiment, scaling ladders being used to scale the heights. The assault was assisted by the gun boats from the river below.

Minhla was further protected by a redoubt which had been heavily constructed of green bamboo and earthwork. This was taken on the same day by assault after a deal of hard fighting in which the Burmese behaved very pluckily. The greater portion of the town was burnt down owing to the bursting of shells in its midst. After two days, the inhabitants returned settled down to their daily avocations and fraternised with the garrison left in charge. Minhla now forms part of the Thayetmyo district....

Sinbaung-gwe, also on the left bank, eighteen miles below Minhla is the next halting place. At the time of the expedition it was defended by a stockade. This was captured by General Norman with a force from the steamers. The defenders fled precipitately to the jungles and the stockade was burnt down.

A few miles below this, the force encounter with the enemy took place. A King’s steamer, called the “Tu-lu-yin-gyaw” with 600 soldiers on board was engaged and captured by the gunboats Irrawaddy and Kathleen The soldiers jumped overboard and swam ashore and the steamer was run aground.
She was towed off by the Kathleen and sent down to Thayetmyo with the “Jack” flying at the mast head.

Thayetmyo on the right bank four miles below is the head-quarters of the district of the same name and was up to the time of the annexation of Upper Burma a strong frontier garrison town. The name is derived from two Burmese words, Thayet, mango and Myo, town.... In the Burmese times it was a place of little importance and its rise is due entirely to the fact that it was selected as the site for a British cantonment after the second Anglo-Burmese war in 1852-53. The town and cantonment are situated on high undulating ground in close proximity to the river... To the north of the cantonment and on the bank of the river is a small fort which contains the arsenal and commissariat stores.

Allanmyo – on the left bank, four miles above Thayetmyo is situated close to the old Burmese fort and town of Myede. It was named after Major Allan, the officers selected to fix the boundary marks of the province of Pegu after the second Anglo-Burmese war, in 1852/83....

Mandalay
Mandalay City or Fort Dufferin
The city of Mandalay was founded by King Mindon Min in 1857. It took three years to build and the King moved to his new capital from Amarapoora in 1857, occupying a temporary palace to direct the building operations. The city is built in the form of a square, each side
of which measures one and a quarter miles in length. A brick wall twenty-six feet in height and three and a half feet thick and crenulated at the top, encloses the whole. The wall is backed by an earthen rampart, twenty-five feet wide, which reaches the apertures....

... At the east gate the British Infantry guard is stationed and at each of the others a Native Infantry or Military Police guard. The garrison maintained at Mandalay at the present time (1895) is:-
One Regiment British Infantry
Two Regiments Native Infantry
One Mule Battery
One Battery Royal Artillery
Two Companies Sappers & Miners

The total population in the cantonments in 1893 was 18,744. The cantonments extend for some distance beyond the limits if the fort, the Royal Artillery Lines being to the east of Mandalay Hill and the Transport and Commissariat Lines to the east of the fort. The Sappers and Miners Lines are situated to the north of the fort.

The Central Jail, situated in the extreme north-west corner, is capable of accommodating 1,112 prisoners of all classes and the Civil Surgeon of Mandalay is the Superintendent.

... It is ten years since the British occupation of Mandalay and yet the Church of England has no representative building, other than the Church of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel Mission, erected by King Mindon Min nearly thirty years ago.

The Roman Catholics have an imposing Cathedral, built at a cost of a lakh of rupees by a wealthy native convert. The Baptists, a handsome memorial Church to Dr. Judson’s memory, the Wesleyans, a masonry Chapel, the Church of England, a consecrated Hpongyi Kyaung or monastery, from which the priests were evicted by the moral persuasion of British bayonets!

... The Myauk Samok was used as the place for the reception of offerings and here the King went to inspect the White Elephant. This building is now used as the office of the Deputy Conservator of Forests, Mandalay Division.

... Sangermano, a Catholic Priest who lived in Burma for some years during the reign of King Bodau-pya, in the latter part of last century, gives a most exhaustive account of the capture of a so-called white elephant in the forests of Pegu in the year 1805. In a foot note to the new edition of Sangermano’s work, edited by John Jardine, formerly Judicial Commissioner of British Burma, the editor states that the special reverence shown to the white elephant was derived from Hindu mythology....

.... The white portico over the carriage road on the south side was formerly the theatre built by King Thibaw for the “Parsi Victoria Theatrical Company” who, by the King’s command, proceeded to the capital in 1881 or 82 and were so well received and treated that their stay extended over several months. The stage has been removed and the building is now... The building adjacent to it was a sort of drawing room where the court assembled to witness the dramatic performances in the theatre close by. The glass trellis work of the verandah of this room is very unique and the mural decorations of looking glass-mosaic work are well preserved and give one a good idea of Burmese ornamentation. This room is now used as the Officers’ Mess of the European Regiment forming part of the garrison.

Mandalay Hill
This hill, situated to the north-east of the walled city.... Its real name is Mandaye Hill, the word meaning “to bear a good reputation or character.” The original Mandalay Hill is situated in the valley of the Mu river and an old tradition stated that a large and flourishing city would be established near it. King Mindon Min however preferred the site near Mandaye Hill, so he caused large quantities of soil to be brought from the hill in the Mu valley, which was deposited on the Mandaye Hill and near it the capital Mandalay was built, the name of the hill being also changed. Mandalay is said to mean “bearing reputation or character.”

Dyer’s Brewery
... The tall chimney see to the right of the north-west corner of the city wall is Dyer’s Brewery (formerly the Royal Gun Factory) where excellent beer and stout are manufactured. Close to it are the ruins of the King’s saw-mill, long since abandoned and deserted.

R.C. Cathedral
This beautiful building is situated at the south-west corner of the city walls and it graceful spire, surmounted by a huge gilded cross, rendered it a conspicuous object from all parts of the city. The building was erected in 1890 at a total cost of Rs. 60,000, the whole of which was defrayed by Kyaung-taga Paul Oupho, a wealthy Burma Roman Catholic....

A.B.M.
... About a hundred yards to the west of the lake is the village of Aungpinle, where during the continuance of the First Anglo-Burmese war the Christian captives were kept. The King, seized the missionaries of the American Baptist Mission, together with any other Christian whom on the outbreak of the war, happened to be in the country. Among the former were Dr. and Mrs Judson and Dr. price.

The indignities and cruelties suffered by these saintly people are melancholy chapters in the history of the mission. After six month incarceration they were released on the cessation of hostilities and Bagyidau employed Drs. Price and Judson as his mediums in the conclusion of peace at Yandabo.

The cruel treatment and inhuman treatment shown to Ann, the wife of Dr. Judson, who had but lately become a mother, so undermined her health that she died shortly afterwards, just after leaving Moulmein on her voyage home. Her grave, marked by a humble tombstone, is on Amherst Point, at the entrance to the Salween River, thirty miles from Moulmein.

Sagaing
The classical name of which was Jeyapura... It is now the head-quarters of the Commissioner of the Central Division and also of a Deputy Commissioner and the court and offices subordinates to him and has besides the Bazaar, a Telegraph and Post Office, Police Lines and Civil and Military Hospitals.

Shwebo
... The Mu Valley Railway runs right through the town... the civil station being to the east of the old city and the cantonments on the high ground about two miles to the north-west.

It forms the head-quarters of the Shwebo district and contains the Court and Offices of the Deputy Commissioner and the Court and Offices subordinate to him, a District Jail, Dispensary, Civil and Military Police Lines, Mission stations of the Church of England and Roman Catholic communities and a good sized Railway Station...

In 1888 Shwebo was constituted a municipality, the committee consisting of six ex-officio members and eight members appointed by the local Government....

Ava
Ava or Inwa, is situated on the left bank.... This historical name of Ratana-pura or “City of Gems” and in poetical language it is called Shwe-wa or the “Golden Entrance.”...

Nicolo de Conte, a Venetian traveller, was the first European who visited the city. He was there in 1440. In 1526 the capital was take by the Shans of Mohnyin....

...Alaungpya, however, fixed on his native place Moksobo, as his capital and when Ava was visited by Capt. Baker, a British Envoy in 1755, he found it to contain only about a few thousand families and no buildings of any importance.

... In 1823 Ava was therefore re-occupied and remained the capital till 1837, when Tharrawaddi removed to Amarapura.

Zedi-Dau Pagoda
... This handsome structure is situated to the north of the American Baptist Mission Compound and presents a good view from the river....

Mandalay to Bhamo by Steamer
Burma Coal Mines
... About ten miles above Kyauk-Myaung on the right bank at the bend in the river, we come to Kabwet. This is the headquarters o the Burma Coal Mines Co. Coal has been worked for a number of years in these parts and the fields were visited in 1855 by Mr Oldham, the geological expert who accompanied Col. Phayre’s mission to Mindon Min.

Coal of good quality is found here, but the concession has not yet been fully developed. The company has lately acquired a prospecting license over a large area of coal-bearing land in the neighbourhood and there is some talk of a line of rails being run to the coal fields from Kinu station on the Mu Valley Railway.
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Thi-he-dau
... Two miles below Thabeikgyin, the small island of Thi-ha-dau is passed, close to the right bank. It is crowned by a gilded pagoda and has besides, several monasteries in a ruined condition . Prior to annexation the monasteries were inhabited and the pools below the islands were the home of a species of carp, which were held sacred. Many of them were gilded about the head and fins and a royal order made fishing within three miles of the island a penal offence. The kyaungs are now deserted and the fish dispersed. U Hmat, the “Ruby King” of Mogok has lately repaired the pagoda, which has an annual festival attended by vast crowds from all parts of Upper Burma.

The village of Thabeikgyin is prettily situated on the sloping banks of the river. This place is the port for the Ruby Mines District and a metalled road, sixty-one miles in length, runs from the river bank to Mogok.... About twelve miles to the north-west of Mogok is the hill station of Bernard Myo, so called from Sir Charles Bernard. The station is 7,555 ft. above sea level and is garrisoned by troops from the Shwebo cantonment.

Nanyazeik - Ruby Mines
Sixty-one miles from the river Irrawaddy in a north-easterly direction from Mandalay.... amid ranges of mountains separating Burma proper from the Shan States, the famous ruby bearing tracts are found. It is from these mines that the greater quantity of the world’s supplies of rubies have been secured.

... refused to allow Dr. Oldham (the geological expert who accompanied Col. Phayre’s mission to Mindon Min) ... to visit these tracts. The only European who had visited the mines in the days of the native rule was a French priest named Pere Guiseppe D’Amato, who found his way there some fifty years ago and reported his experiences to the Royal Asiatic Society. Under native rule all stones above a certain size were by law declared the property of the King and were made over, or supposed to be made over, to the King’s Officer in charge of the mines....

Soon after the taking of Mandalay by the British in 1885, a flying column was despatched to these outlying tracts to secure possession of the mines on behalf of the British Government.

In 1887 a company called the Burma Ruby Mines Co. was formed in London... acquired the exclusive rights over all ruby bearing tracts in the neighbourhood....

Tigyaing, on the right bank of the river is the next halting place. The village is pleasantly situated on a rocky hill which rises from the water’s edge... immediately opposite Tigyaing on the left bank is Myadaung, This was the seat of Government of the Wun or Governor, when under Burmese rule.

For some time after the annexation, a garrison was maintained at Tigyaing for the suppression of the numerous dacoit bands that infested the district.

... Soon after leaving Tigyaing, the mouth of the Shweli river is passed on the left bank. This river flows through the Shan States and taps some of the most extensive teak forests in Upper Burma. These were formerly leased to the great Moulmein forester Maung Mun Taw and latterly to Messrs. McGregor & Co of Rangoon.

It was these forests that supplied the magnificent timber used in the construction of the palace and other buildings in Mandalay.

Katha, on the right bank, is the head-quarters of the district of the same name and has lately been connected by rail with Sagaing and Mandalay. Both town and district are notorious for the poisonous climate they possess, the cemeteries, it is said, are large and well filled. About sixteen miles above Katha and on the same bank of the river is Moda. It is here that several employees of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Co. were treacherously taken prisoners in 1885 and conveyed to Tigyaung for execution.

Bhamo, or Ba-mau as it is called in Burmese, is situated on the left bank of the Irrawaddy a few miles below the confluence of the Taping with that river... The native portion extends along the left bank of the river for a distance of about a mile and a half, terminating to the north of the old fort. It was here that the British residency was situated prior to annexation. The fort or stockade now contains the jail and the military police lines. Behind this is a deep depression forming a plain or maidan in the cold weather, but covered with from fifteen to twenty feet of water in the rains. This forms, when free of water, the parade and recreation ground for the garrison. The fort is situated to the east of the town and was built after the occupation. It is rectangular in shape and is surrounded by a broad dry ditch, beyond which barbed wire entanglements are laid down to prevent a rush. It contains barracks for the accommodation of the garrison, which consists of two companies of Europeans, a full native regiments and a mule mountain battery.

The American Baptist Mission have a prosperous boarding school and mission for the Kachins in Bhamo, which was established some years before the British occupation...

Myitkyina
... In 1895 Myitkyina was made the head-quarters of a new district and since that time much has been done to introduce a regular system of government, into these distance and outlying regions.

The Mu Valley State Railway is being extended from Mogoung to Myitkyina, a distance of forty miles, and when this is opened a great impetus will be given to the trade of the Upper Irrawaddy.... There is, therefore, every reason to expect that Myitkyina will in time become a great centre of trade. At present, beyond the barracks and usual Government Offices, it contains few houses and no large native community.

Rangoon to Mandalay by Rail
... the train passes through the eastern suburbs if the city and after a run of six minutes pulls up at Pazundaung, an important suburb and he business quarter of Rangoon, where the rice mills are situated. This is the old “push-im-down” quarter of Tommy Atkins of half a century ago.

... After leaving Pazundaung, on the right will be seen the numerous rice mills, on which the greater part of the trade of the port depends. The paddy is brought to the go-downs of the mills and the depots in the Rangoon river by the cultivators and after being milled, is conveyed in lighters to the Rangoon river for shipment.

... crossing the Pegu river by a massive iron bridge of considerable length... Pyuntaza is reached, eighty-eight miles from Rangoon. This is the end of the first section of the railway and is a depot for spare engines, carriages and trucks. The town has sprung up since the opening of the railway, to the detriment of Shwe-Gyin, the former head-quarters of the district, situated on the Sittaung river, about fourteen miles due west of the railway station.

... Taungu is reached at the unearthly hour of 3 a.m. but as the traveller may wish to break his journey here, a short description of the place is given.

The town which contains 17,517 inhabitants, is situated on the right bank of the Sittaung river, ... From 1852-1885, when the upper province was annexed, it was a very strong military station and had a large garrison, both of infantry and artillery, but of late years the military station has been abolished and the prosperity of the town has in consequently suffered...

A small square redoubt was constructed by the military authorities, about thirty years ago, on the angles of which, light guns were formerly mounted. Most of the military buildings have been removed to more important posts in Upper Burma.

... Pyinmana is reached at 6.20 a.m. and the train stops sufficiently long enough to enable passengers.... This town was formerly called “Ningyan” and is still known as such to the Burmans of the district. The name was changed, to prevent endless confusion with “Myingyan” on the Irrawaddy. In the neighbourhood are extensive teak forests, which in the King’s time were leased to Messrs. Darwood & Co. of Rangoon. The most valuable and marketable timber has nearly all been extracted by the officers of the Forest Department.

... Just after leaving Pyinmana station, the railway crosses a broad tributary of the Sittaung by a handsome iron bridge and at 9 a. m. Yamethin is reached. This is the head-quarters of the third section of the railway and is also the head-quarters of the district which takes its name from the town... From Yamethin, a run of half an hour brings us to Pyaw-bwe, where a large depot for military police is kept....

... At. 11 a.m. Thazi junction is reached and passengers for Meiktila alight here. The cantonment and town of Meiktila are situated at the terminus of the branch line...

The cantonments are to the west of the lake and here are kept a wing of a British regiment and a full regiments of Sepoys...

... This is no doubt owing to its favourable situation on the railway line and further to the fact that the Government road from Myingyan on the Irrawaddy to Fort Stedman and Taunggyi in the Southern Shan States, here meets and crosses the railway. The total distance from Meiktila cantonment to fort Stedman is a little short of 132 miles.

... Leaving Thazi at 11.07 a.m. Thedau is reached shortly before noon. Two miles to the west is Wundwin, the head-quarters of the sub-division and which in the King’s time was the residence of the Wun or Governor. A good deal of fighting took place in the neighbourhood in the troubled times succeeding the annexation, as the numerous graves of European soldiers bear witness.

Mandalay to Mogaung by Rail
The Mu Valley Railway is so called because from Sagaing northwards, as far as Kawlin, it runs more or less parallel to that river...

.. Reconnaissance parties are also at the present time (1895) making surveys through Assam, across Patkoi rang of mountains, which separate north-east Burma from Assam, with a view to the linking up of the Burma railway to the Bengal system of railways.

...Ywataung 2 ½ miles out (from Sagaing) was the depot for the new railway and originally had a large staff of engineers and other officials. It also had carriage factories and fitter’s shops, similar to those at Insein on the Irrawaddy Valley State Railway. Under recent orders from the Government, the separate establishment had been broken up and the entire work is carried out at Insein...

Pakokku to Kindat and Homalin up the Chindwin River
... Ten miles above Sadon, on the left bank of the river, Monywa is situated. It is one of the nicest and most picturesque stations in Upper Burma and is the head-quarters of the Lower Chindwin District.

besides the Deputy Commissioner’s court and offices, it forms the head-quarters of the Lower Chindwin Military Police Battalion and is an important station for forest revenue....

Eight miles above Monywa and on the same bank of the river is Alon, a place of great importance in the King’s time... Opposite Alon some picturesque hills topped by pagodas are seen. These formed the stronghold of the dacoit bands which molested the garrisons at Alon during the early years of the occupation...

... Mingin is reached. This is the head-quarters of the southern sub-division of the Upper Chindwin District and in the Burmese King’s time was an important military post.... It is an important station of the Bombay Burma Trading Corporation and just below the town in 1885 four European assistants were treacherously murdered by order of a Thandau-zin specially despatched in a launch from Mandalay for the purpose by Supya-Lat, the Queen and the Taing-da-Mingyi.

... Kalewa s the nearest port on the Chindwin the Chin Hills and is distant about 40 miles from Fort White. The officer commanding the Chin Hills troops lives here as do also several officials connected with the Commissariat Department.

Nine miles above Kalewa, on the left bank, is the village of Balet. ... Balet itself contains many inhabitants of Portuguese and French extraction, the descendants of prisoners of war taken by the Kings of Burma from Syriam, Rangoon and Bassein during the last century.

... brings us to Kindat, the head-quarters of the Upper Chindwin District. The Government Offices and the Jail are protected from floods by bunds.... In the Burmese times the place was a strong military post, as the name implies (Kin, a look-out, Dat or Tat, a fort or stockade.)

At the outbreak of hostilities in 1885, several employees of the Bombay Burma Trading Corp. were seized and kept in irons hers, on orders received from the capital. The Wun also, who was favourable to the British cause, was also kept under arrest, together with his wife and family. They were relieved by a force under Col. Johnson, the resident of Manipur...

The Irrawaddy Flotilla Company do not proceed further north than Kindat, but in the rains, when the river is in flood, they proceed as far as Homalin 147 miles north of Kindat. This part of the Chindwin is very sparsely populated and villages are few and far between. The first halting place is at Pantha, on the left bank, fourteen miles from Kindat. After a run of nine miles, the mouth of the Yu river is passed. This river drains the Kubo valley and received from the north the Tamu Chaung. It was by this route that Lt. Grant proceeded to the relief of the Manipur garrison in 1891, when the Chief Commissioner of Assam and several military officers were massacred by orders of the Sonaputti.

The next important place is Sittaung, thirty-one miles north of the mouth of the Yu. It was here that General Graham landed with his forces and proceeded to the relief of Manipur after the massacres. Paungbyin on the left bank, twenty-seven miles above Sittaung, is the head-quarters of the Legayaing Sub-division of the Upper Chindwin District.

Mandalay to Maymyo
Maymyo is so called from Col. May, one of the pioneer officers of the field-force during the expedition of 1885-86. He was one of the earliest to discover the salubrity of its climate and its adaptation as a hill station and sanatorium.

... Maymyo is the head-quarters of the Pwin-u-win Sub-division of the Mandalay District. It is a military cantonment and a civil and military police station. The principal public buildings are the barracks and officers’ quarters, the court-house, military and civil police posts, the Public Works Dept. and Forest Dept....

Taunggyi
At Taunggyi you will be hospitably entertained by Mr Hildebrand in a very nice house recently built for him by the Government. Comfortable and well furnished with a pretty out-look, it gives one the feeling of being in a pleasant little country house in England and this feeling will be strengthened when Mr Hildebrand had perfected his plans for garden and orchard, already fairly stocked and yielding a good supply of English flowers, fruit and vegetables.

Keng Tung
... I am indebted to Mr G.S. Sterling, Assistant Commissioner and an intelligent Burmese Official, Maung Nyo, our Agent at Keng Tung, also to Munshi Abdur Rahim, one of my assistants for much of the following information concerning the laws and customs of the Shans....

... The path from Taunggyi to Keng Tung was last summer widened and improved and made into an excellent mule track... This work reflects great credit to Mr Litster, Executive Engineer at Fort Stedman...

Civil Divisions, 1894/95

Lower Burma

Commissionership Executive District Chief Towns

Arakan

Akyab
Northern Arakan
Kyaukpyu
Sandoway

Akyab
-
-
-

Pegu

Rangoon Town
Hanthawaddy
Pegu
Tharrawaddy
Prome

Rangoon
-
Pegu
-
Prome, Shwedaung and Paungde

Irrawaddy

Thongwa
Bassein
Henzada
Myaungmya

Yandoon, Maubin
Bassein, Ngathaingyaung
Henzada, Myanaung, Kyangin, Zalun, Lemyethna
Pantanaw

Southern

Thayetmyo

Thayetmyo, Allanmyo

Tenasserim

Amherst
Tavoy
Mergui
Toungoo
Shwegyin
Salween

Moulmein, Thaton
Tavoy
Mergui
Toungoo
Shwegyin, Kyaikto
-

Upper Burma

Northern

Mandalay
Bhamo
Katha
Shwebo
Ruby Mines

Mandalay
Bhamo
Katha
Shwebo
Mogok

Central

Ye-u
Sagaing
L. Chindwin
U. Chindwin

Ye-u
Sagaing
Monywa
Kindat

Eastern

Kyaukse
Meiktila
Yamethin
Myingyan

Kyaukse
Meiktila
Yamethin, Pyinmana
Myingyan

Southern

Pakokku
Minbu
Magwe

The Press 1894/95

Amherst (Moulmein Town)

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~~~~~~~~~

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~~~~~~~~~
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~~~~~~~~~
Press name:
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~~~~~~~~~

The Moulmein Advertiser
J.O. Hughes
The Moulmein Advertiser, tri-weekly
Advertiser & Mercantile Gazette, tri weekly. Private work only
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Edris
Edris
---
Job work only executed
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Cassim
Cassim
---
Job work only executed
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Zaza Bonmi
Ko Tha Nyo
---
Job work only executed
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The Bulletin
J. Copley Moyle
---
Job work only executed
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Ramapoora
Maung Tun Byu
---
Job work only executed
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Burma Times
Maung Po Kin
---
Job work only executed
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Toungoo

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Periodicals:

Karen Mission, A.B.M.
C.H. Hoptonstall
---
Lee ho tab - monthly

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Periodicals:

The Church Mission
Rev’d. A. Salmon
---
The Pole Star, in Karen - monthly

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Periodicals:

R.C. Mission
Fr. G. Conti
---
He Dedosa, in Karen Fortnightly

Mandalay

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~~~~~~~~

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Owner:
Newspaper:

The Mandalay Herald
Z.M. D’Silva
The Mandalay Herald, tri-weekly

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The Star of Burma
Maung Shwe Lwin
Star of Burma – bi-weekly in Burmese &
Daily Advertiser in English

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Newspapers:

~~~~~~~~~

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Newspaper:
Periodicals:

The Mandalay Times
Maung Tu
The Mandalay Times, bi-weekly in Burmese, Daily Advertiser in English
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Mandalay Press
Mrs C. Caldecourt & Mrs M. Hosmer
---
Job work

Akyab

Press name: Owner:
Newspaper:
Periodicals:

The Akyab News
Maung San Ri
Arakan News, bi-wkly.
Annual reports of the Akyab & Ramree Municipalities & Job work executed.

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Owner:
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Periodicals:

Victoria
Maung Tha Tun
---
Job work executed

Press name:
Owner:
Newspaper:
Periodicals:

Pyegyimendine
Maung Saw Baw ---
Job work executed

Rangoon

Press name:
Owner:
Newspaper:

The Govt. Press. The Central Jail
Govt. of Burma. J.F. Regan, Superintendent
Burma Gazette in English - weekly ;  Burma Gazette in Vernacular - weekly ;  Police Gazette in English - weekly
Police Gazette – Supplement in English and Vernacular ;  Monthly Proceedings of the Chief Commissioner in several depts. under his control:-  Quarterly Civil List  Annual History of Services of Gazetted Officers ;  Annual Provincial Administration Report
Forty Annual Departmental Reports ;  Govt. Publications – job work executed

Press name:
Owner:
Newspaper:
Periodicals:

A.B.M. Press
American Baptist Mission
---
The Morning Star in Karen, monthly ;  The Evening Star in Karen, monthly ;  Burmese Messenger in Burmese, monthly
The Sunday School Lesson Paper in Burmese, monthly ;  The Sunday School Lesson Paper in Karen, monthly
The News, monthly ;  Ensign, monthly ;  The Life Line, monthly

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Press name:   The Victoria Owner: S. Goolbas Newspaper:   --- Periodicals:  Job work executed

Press name:
The Rangoon Gazette

Owners:
J. Stuart, F. McCarthy, V.J. Mariano

Newspaper:
The Rangoon Gazette, (daily) & The Rangoon Weekly Budget

Press name:
British Burma Advertiser

Owners:
J. Stuart, F. McCarthy, V.J. Mariano

Newspaper:
British Burma Advertiser, yearly

Periodical:
The Burma Directory & Diary, yearly.

Press name:
The Friend of Burma

Owners:
J. Stuart, F. McCarthy, V.J. Mariano

Newspaper:
The Friend of Burma, daily